Transplanting

We are experienced in transplanting trees but before you get us in to do the job, we recommend you consider the following points, as it will determine whether we advise for or against moving the tree.

What type of tree is it?

Some species tend to withstand transplanting better than others. When deciding whether or not to transplant a tree or shrub, or to start over with a young plant, consider the species transplant tolerance, condition of the plant, season to transplant, new planting site conditions, and follow-up care.

Transplanting stresses trees and shrubs. Such stress may cause plants to die or to become unattractive. Plants which are already in advanced stages of decline are especially likely to succumb to transplantation stress. Shrubs have better transplant tolerance than trees, deciduous plants better than evergreens, shallow rooted species better than deep rooted species, and younger plants better than older plants.

What is the size of the tree?

Special considerations are necessary when moving large trees. If trees are over 75mm in diameter, special equipment is required to transport the tree.

Depending on the size of the tree and the technique used, the equipment may include hand carts, winches, tree spades, or cranes. Permits may be required to transport large trees on some public roads. For trees not grown with the benefits of nursery production, root pruning the trees for two or more years prior to transplanting may prove beneficial in re-establishment.

The transplanting process is critical to the successful establishment and future health of the tree.

This information is based on the most recent research and recorded observations of successful techniques. For example, recent studies about transplanting trees have indicated that smaller trees transplant more easily and more successfully than larger diameter trees. They are lighter and easier to handle, they are less likely to be dropped or damaged in transit and they are more likely to have adequate roots to support their crown.

Root zone moisture and watering

The root mass needs adequate moisture levels to supply the leaves and stems for turgor (rigidity). The general rule applied here is that the tree should receive 25mm of rain weekly, and if it doesn't rain, you must irrigate to supply the difference. A common error that will prevent successful establishment is to stop irrigating the tree too early in its development. Irrigation may be needed for as long as three years after transplanting. Deep watering is essential.

Location, location, location!

Determine whether the tree or shrub likes sun or shade, and what its spacing and watering requirements are. Consider any changes in soil type and wind exposure. For instance, don't locate a plant that craves water next to one that prefers dry conditions, or one that needs nutrient rich soil next to one that prefers clay. Their needs will be incompatible.

Season to Transplant

Some species may survive transplanting any time during the year, but woody plants are preferably moved in the spring before the buds on the tree or shrub begin to swell. They may also be moved in autumn after leaf drop.

Woody plants that are transplanted in late spring and early summer (when shoot growth is at its peak) tend to show the greatest transplant injury.

Site Selection

There are great differences in the environmental requirements for each tree and shrub species. Only transplant a tree or shrub where light, moisture, soil pH and wind exposure are appropriate for the particular species. All plants require space for root and crown development; therefore, consider mature plant size when planting trees and shrubs.

Soil characteristics are often limiting factors for woody plant survival in a given area. Sometimes the soil is inappropriate for tree growth and will require improved drainage or amendments before trees and/or shrubs are planted at the given location. A soil test should be completed in areas where soil quality is questionable.